While waiting for our rigging work in the Port of Hyeres, France, we took a couple of days off from boat projects and visited a few towns in Provence.
Visiting the town of Lorgues had been on Robert’s bucket list for a long time. He traced his family tree from Quebec, Canada, back to Lorgues, France, where his first old-world ancestor departed for the French and Indian War in the 18th century. Since Lorgues is only about 75 kilometers from Hyères, we definitely could not miss this opportunity.
After about an hour’s drive from Port of Hyères, we arrived in a picturesque and tranquil mountain town that felt like stepping back in time. As we wandered through the medieval town center and walked along the narrow cobblestone streets lined with stone houses, we reflected on the lives of Robert’s ancestors. We imagined the challenges he faced before leaving France for the unknown and frigid frontier.
After wandering through narrow streets and visiting the local cemetery in search of possible deceased relatives without much success, we joined the locals at a café near the town square for some coffee and tea. It felt as if time had stood still here, with people living in the same way for decades, if not centuries. In late November, there were few tourists. The town residents leisurely enjoyed a sunny Saturday afternoon in cafes and pubs, taking their time without any hurry.


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Next stop Saint-Tropez
When we told our French acquaintances that we were going to Saint-Tropez, none of them seemed particularly impressed by the town. To the French, it is just another charming coastal village that has suffered from over-tourism. In contrast, when I mentioned this trip to my American friends, everyone was envious and captivated by the idea, as it evokes old-Hollywood glamour and lifestyles of the rich and famous for them. The reality may be closer to the French view.
The coastal road to Saint-Tropez along the Gulf of Saint-Tropez is breathtaking. It’s no wonder the French Riviera remains a highly sought-after vacation destination
Our first order of business was to find a parking spot. While searching, we accidentally turned onto a narrow street that was too tight even for our tiny French rental car. After a close call where we nearly got stuck and an encounter with an angry old Frenchman, we managed to back out slowly without causing any damage. Phew! Eventually, we found a place to park for free behind a row of luxury stores that were all closed on Sunday. That didn’t matter to us since we weren’t in town for shopping; our luxury shopping funds are reserved for our “lady” Juno.
With only a day to see this world-famous town, we were eager to begin our exploration on foot.
Our first stop was the waterfront, a haven for mega yachts. It was impressive, but I had encountered similar sights in Miami and Fort Lauderdale. This could be attributed to the season; in December, many super yachts are likely docked in the Caribbean.
We then visited the famous La Tarte Tropezienne, explored the Citadel of Saint-Tropez, and enjoyed a lovely lunch at one of the many waterfront restaurants. Saint-Tropez is undeniably a beautiful seaside town.
Expectation, however, is a funny thing. The fame of Saint-Tropez created high hopes for my visit. However, I found the town to be very touristy and not as lively or charming as I’d anticipated. I would have loved to have visited Saint-Tropez before Brigitte Bardot made it famous in the 50’s, when it was still a modest fishing village, nestled in the picture-perfect Golfe de Saint-Tropez.






Final note on the road trip: the drive from Saint-Tropez back to Hyères was quite an adventure. I had no idea that the southern coast of France is so mountainous! The locals drive very fast on these winding and steep roads, and so did Robert, keeping me on the edge of my seat and fully awake, until we finally reached Hyères.

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