We had a delightful “champagne sailing” experience from Union Island in St. Vincent to St. George’s in Grenada. The term “champagne sailing,” describes ideal sailing conditions: calm seas, a steady breeze, and sunny weather. Despite the beautiful sail, I was not particularly excited about our next destination. While it serves as a refuge during hurricane season because it lies just below the hurricane belt, Grenada has never been on my radar as a destination worth visiting.
My limited expectations of Grenada were further shaped by Robert’s experience when he went to view a potential Amel 54 for us. The boat was on land at the Clark’s Court boatyard. According to Robert’s limited exposure to the country, the water near the boatyard was dark and smelly, the roads were narrow with fast-driving locals, and there wasn’t much to do or see in the immediate area.
As we approached the mooring field outside St. George, we were greeted by a stunning view of St. George Fort and the Carenage, framed by rolling green hills. The scene reminded me of an old European port. After mooring, to the starboard side of Juno, there was a large crescent beach some distance away. The water in the anchorage was clear and blue. Phew! This was much better than Robert’s description of Grenada.
We spent a couple of days touring St George, walking around St George Fort and the Carenage. At sunset, we took long walks on the gorgeous Grand Anse Beach.
For those who live on land outside of Florida or South Texas, it may not occur to you that the Atlantic Hurricane Season lasts half a year, from June to November. This lengthy period can be quite inconvenient for those of us who choose to live on a boat year-round in the Caribbean. Most hurricanes primarily affect areas north of the 15°N latitude; however, South Grenada lies south of that line, making it a popular destination for sailors during the hurricane season. Our plan for the 2025 hurricane season is to spread our time over six months among Grenada, Trinidad, and the ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curaçao).
Southern Grenada offers several bays where you can anchor or secure your boat to a mooring buoy. We opted for Mount Hartman Bay for its quiet seclusion, yet manageable walking distance to restaurants and grocery stores, and its reduced exposure to ocean swells, thanks to a reef that protects the bay’s entrance.
I quickly discovered the many advantages of Grenada. As a summer campground for cruisers, the cruising community here is well-established and vibrant. Daily radio nets, biweekly shopping bus trips, and numerous events organized by fellow cruisers kept us busy. We became acquainted with our neighboring boats in the anchorage and participated in a Grenadian-organized Hash, which is a weekly hiking trip, as well as a full-day island tour.
The group island tour we joined with other cruisers was a memorable experience. Our tour guide and driver was an enthusiastic horticulturist. He introduced us to various plant species, handed out leaves for us to smell in the minibus, quizzed us on what we had learned, and even stopped by the roadside to pick unusual fruits for us to taste. We felt like schoolchildren on a field trip. At one of the stops, we came across two giant mango trees heavy with fruit. The locals were picking mangos from the trees and generously shared them with us. The mangos we took home that day were among the best I have ever tasted.
Of course, it is mandatory on any Caribbean Island tour to visit a rum distillery. The one we visited was the River Antoine Estate Distillery, which has operated since 1785 and is the island’s oldest distillery. This working distillery employs traditional, organic methods to produce rum. Additionally, it features the only functioning waterwheel in the Caribbean, which crushes sugarcane. This distillery has such a rustic charm that is quite different from the modern rum distillery we visited in Martinique.
Mount Hartman Bay is not just a good spot to anchor; it’s got something special, too. At the end of the bay, you’ll find the Secret Harbor Boutique Hotel and Marina, a small resort sitting on the hillside. On Wednesdays, they throw a Jazz and Friends night with a local smooth jazz band, and the lead singer has a stunning, deep voice. We were pleasantly surprised that we could enjoy tasty food and live music just a quick dinghy ride away!
To add the cherry on top of an already nice and relaxing stay, my best friend M came for a short visit. We played hosts and showed her our favorite spots: Umbrella’s Beach Bar, Grand Anse Beach, BBC Beach, and The Carenage Waterfront Promenade.
After six weeks in Grenada, I came to appreciate why cruisers choose to spend the hurricane season in Grenada year after year. The cruising community has it figured out, making life easier and more enjoyable. The locals are friendly and cheerful, and when the mangos are in season, they are truly the best!
Our positive view of Grenada slightly diminished as we prepared for our journey to Trinidad. Robert went down to clean the hull and discovered that the entire anchor chain and boat bottom were covered in millions of barnacles. This required about six or seven hours of scrapping the hull by Robert with scuba gear to resolve before heading off to Trinidad. The water in the southern bays of Grenada lacks the crystal-clear clarity typical of many other Caribbean anchorages, primarily due to the area’s topography, which leads to significant runoff from the surrounding hills. This nutrient-rich water reduces visibility and promotes substantial growth on boats in the area. It’s time to catch up on some boat jobs and give Juno some TLC. We will do that in the next port – Chaguaramas, Trinidad and Tobago.
