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  • Saint-Pierre, often called the "Pearl of the French West Indies" or the "Pompeii of the Caribbean."
    Saint-Pierre, often called the “Pearl of the French West Indies” or the “Pompeii of the Caribbean.”

    St. Pierre leaves a lasting impression on visitors. As we approached the anchorage just outside the town center, we were awed by the magnificent presence of Mount Pelée volcano.

    Saint-Pierre is a historic coastal town on the northwest coast of Martinique. Founded in 1635 by Pierre Belain d’Esnambuc, it was the island’s original capital and a bustling cultural and economic hub. Tragically, on May 8, 1902, the nearby Mount Pelée volcano erupted violently. A massive pyroclastic flow (a fast-moving cloud of hot gas, ash, and rock) destroyed the town in minutes, killing nearly all of its ~28,000–30,000 inhabitants—the deadliest volcanic disaster of the 20th century. Only a handful survived, one of whom was the famous prisoner named Ludger Sylbaris (Cyparis), locked in a sturdy dungeon.

    Once I learned the history of Saint-Pierre, I could not shake off the sense of melancholy as we wandered around this picturesque town. The entire town is a living museum, with signs telling the horrifying story of the volcanic eruption.

    The Ruines du Théâtre du Petit Paris (also known as the Théâtre de Saint-Pierre) is one of the most striking and evocative historical sites in Saint-Pierre, Martinique. This once-grand theater was a symbol of the city’s former glory as the cultural and economic heart of the French Antilles, often nicknamed “le Petit Paris des Antilles.” Even as a ruin, the scale and grandeur still impress.
    Ludger Sylbaris’s dungeon is a reminder of the tragedy. Sylbaris is the most famous survivor of the volcanic eruption. The heavy stone walls of his cell and its orientation—with its back facing Mount Pelée—likely saved his life. He was rescued four days later with severe burns.

    As we admired the harbor view from the Mémorial de la catastrophe de 1902 terrace, we learned that all ships anchored in the bay except one survived the eruption. I found this article, published in 1902, describing the miraculous escape of the British steamship Roddam. It paints a vivid picture of the disaster.

    These dreadful stories weighed heavily on us, and we needed a sweet treat to lift our spirits. Just then, we stumbled upon the charming Concept store Créole Arts Café. This café is housed in the first building rebuilt in 1908 on the ruins of the city, only six years after the eruption. The current owner has done a lovely job of preserving the old interior, with exposed stone walls and traditional windows. As we admired the space, we couldn’t help but feel the weight of history—the walls and stones seemed to whisper tales of incredible resilience. It truly takes a special kind of courage, or perhaps a hint of madness, to rebuild amid ashes and ruins, especially with the majestic volcano serving as a daily reminder of its power.


    Les Aromes – Creole Arts Cafe

    On the third morning after our arrival in Saint Pierre, Mount Pelée volcano finally lifted its veil of clouds and graced us with a clear view. Robert flew the drone to capture the following short clip. Hope you enjoy it.

    Next stop: the Nature Island of Dominica.